Hair waving device



Juhe 4, 1935. sMlTH 2,003,811

HAIR WAVING DEVICE Filed June 22, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet l 1 IN VEN TOR. 15776571. $0M

By loa A TTORNEY June 4, 1935. sMlTH 2,003,811

HAIR WAVING DEVICE Filed June 22, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIE .QA

BY @Qaf/ 5W ATTORNEY June 4, 1935. E SMITH 2,003,811

HAIR WAVING DEVICE Filed June 22, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 lb i INVENTOR. 577957 1 /27/'/% By @7// My A TTORNEY June 4, 1935. E. 1.. SMITH 2,003,811

HAIR WAVING DEVICE I Filed June 22, 1933 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 ATTORNEY Patented June 4, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

19 Claims.

This invention relates to hair curling devices, particularly to permanent wave machines of the electrically heated type.

The invention is particularly concerned with the provision of an'improved apparatus'for the permanent waving of hair, which apparatus can be easily manipulated, is eflicient in operation, includes fewer parts, and is less expensive to manufacture than present devices.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an improved apparatus for the waving of.

hair which reduces the possibility of burns or scorching.

Another object of the present invention is to provide an apparatus which will tension the hair upon the waving spool or mandrel, the winding spool being brought up practically against the scalp so that the whole length of the strand of hair is waved and an effective wave is imparted to that portion of the strand of hair adjacent the scalp. Previous apparatuses have imparted but little wave to that portion adjacent the scalp. As'time passes after the permanent wave is imparted to the hair, the hair grows out and the waved portion of the hair gradually -grows farther and farther away from the scalp. The result is that the hair will be waved at the ends and will be straight at the portion adjacent the scalp so that rewaving of that portion is necessary. The apparatus of the present invention imparts a wave very close to the scalp, in fact, almost to the scalp, so that the whole length of the strand of hair is waved. Thus a more lasting and satisfactory wave is secured.

The invention possesses numerous otheradvantageous features and objects, some of which, with the foregoing, will appear in the following wherein I have disclosed preferred forms of apparatus for practising the invention.

In the drawings accompanying and forming a part of the specification:

Figure l is a side elevatfon, partly in section, of a hair waving device of my invention.

Figure 2 is an end elevation of he device shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a plan view of a mandrel or windin spool. V

Figure 4 is an end elevation of the spool shown in Figure 3. v

Figure 4A is a perspective of a wrench used to rotate the mandrel shown in Figure 3.

Figure 5 is a side elevation of a member used with the mandrel shown in Figure 3.

Figure 6 is a section taken along the line 6-6 of Figure 5.

Figure '7 is a perspective view showing a shield to be placed between a hair waving device and the scalp.

Figure 8 is a perspective of a wrench used to tension the'mandrel shown in Figure 1.

Figure 9 is a section of an assembled apparatus, taken generally through the mid-section of Fig: ure 1.

Figure 10 is an end view of the assembled apparatus shown in Figures 3 and 5.

Figure 11 is a section taken through the midsection of Figure 10 and illustrating the assembly.

Figure 12 is a section similar somewhat to that of Figure 9.

Figure 13 is a circuit diagram.

Figure 14 is a side elevation of a clamp and distribution block.

- Figure 15 is a plan of the device showninFigure 14.

Figures 16, 17, and 18 are views illustrating another shield construction, Figure 17 being a section along line l'I-fl of Figure 16.

Figure 19 is a side elevation of a hair waving device including features of my invention.

Figure 20 is a section along the line 2020 in Figure 19.

In the apparatus shown in Figures 1, 2, and 9, I provide a hollow mandrel, winding spool or curling member 2| of the electrically heated type, the mandrel including a refractory core 22 carrying resistance wires 23 which, upon connection to a suitable electric circuit by terminals 48, supply heat to the mandrel and the hair wound thereon. An elongated, arcuate clamp 24 is hinged upon the mandrel, at one end thereof, by

a pin 25 which extends through the mandrel and can be engaged by slotted key 26 (Figure 8) as will presently appear.

It is a feature of the present invention that a relatively simple, and inexpensive apparatus is provided as well as one enabling a more effective wave to be secured. For instance, the Mayer Reissue Patent 17,393, August 6, 1929 utilized a winding mandrel and interposes between said mandrel and the scalp, two separate clamp structures. As I have previously mentioned, this prevents the wave from being secured very close to the scalp, besides being more costly to manufacture and more difllcult to manipulate. In accordance with my invention I mount a clamp bar 3| directly upon the mandrel so that, in effect, it is a part of the mandrel and is generally inseparable therefrom. This clamp bar is carried by strap 32 which extends around the mandrel, at one end thereof, and is seated in groove 33 in which it is rotatable. A pin 34 is extended between the ends of the strap and provides a hinge for the clamp bar so that said bar can be moved from the full line to the dotted line position in Figure 1. To protect the hair and cushion the tension of the hair being treated, the clamp bar 3| carries a covering of a resilient material 36 such as rubber, the rubber extending completely about the mandrel as appears in Figure l, and forcing hair wound on the mandrel or curling member, about the mandrel to tighten the hair.

Means are provided for securing the end of the clamp bar directly to the mandrel so that hair positioned between the clamp bar and the mandrel is engaged. This means comprises a strap member 31 formed to slip over reduced end 39 of the mandrel and be secured thereto by wing nut 39 which is positioned on threaded end 4| of the member 31. A slot 42 is provided in the bar adjacent the end thereof so that member 31 can be manipulated, being moved on and off the reduced end 38 of the mandrel so that the bar can be swung away from the mandrel or secured against the mandrel.

Means are also provided, for inclusion between the hair waving device and the scalp of the user, to protect the scalp against the discomfort attendant upon heating of the wound hair, and to avoid burning of the scalp. This means comprises a member 43 which can be formed of a suitable material such as flannel, or sponge rubber, the member including a cut 44 therein, through which the end of the strand of hair is inserted so that member 43 can be brought up close to the scalp. To preserve the member 43 flat, and to provide close engagement with the hair passed through the cut 44, a tensioning means 46, comprising a link of spring wire, is passed through and extended about the member, in a generally rectangular form, as appears particularly in Figure 7.

In operation, this device is manipulated by clamping the end of the strand of hair between the clamp 24 and the mandrel, particularly adjacent to knurled portion 41. The clamp bar 36 has been previously swung back into a position wherein the hair can be wound freely upon the mandrel, this position being generally indicated by the dotted lines in Figure 1. The mandrel is turned so that the hair winds up upon it until the mandrel is brought very close to the scalp. Before the ends of the strand of hair were placed under the clamp 24 and winding upon the mandrel was begun, the member 43 was positioned, the strand of hair to be curled being pulled through the cut 44 so that the member was brought up adjacent the scalp, as appears in Figure 9. When the strand has been wound almost entirely upon the mandrel, the clamp bar is swung across the mandrel'and member 31 passed over reduced end 38 of the mandrel, the wing nut being screwed down until the clamp bar retains the'hair against the mandrel. The friction between the curling member and the straps 32 and 31 is defor heating, a suitable electrical connector being engaged with terminals 48 so that current can be supplied and the heating elements energized to supply heat to the hair wound upon the mandrel. Because of the use of the internal type of heating element and because the clamp bar 36 is not interposed between the mandrel and the scalp but is substantially coplanar with the mandrel in a plane parallel to the scalp, a very close wave to the scalp is secured without discomfort or danger of burning the scalp or scorching the hair.

In that apparatus shown in Figures 3, 4, 5, 6, 10. and 11, I have provided a curling member or mandrel 6| of the internal heating type, the mandrel including suitable terminals 62, usually at both ends thereof, so that connections to an electrical circuit may be made. Each end of the mandrel is provided with teeth 63 for reasons which will presently appear, while a clamp arm 64 is secured to the mandrel by pin 65 so that the clamp arm is hinged on the mandrel.

To tension the hair wound upon the mandrel 6 I preferably employ a rotatable clamp member 66 (Figures and 6). This member is generally circular in transverse section,. including a flat portion 61 at one end thereof which can be engaged by the fingers of the operator to manipulate the member. Opposite to the flat portion 61 and at both ends of the member I provide projections 68 turned inwardly to the teeth 63, as appears best in Figure 10, so that the member can be rotated in one direction about the mandrel 6| upon which it is normally positioned.

In utilizing this device, the ends of the strand of hair to be waved are first engaged between clamp 64 and the mandrel, the member 43 having been first positioned adjacent the scalp, as was brought out in connection with Figure 9. When almost all of the strand of hair is wound upon the mandrel 6|, a flexible element as member 69 of cellophane, felt or flannel is wound in under the strand of hair so that it extends about the outside of the strand wound upon the mandrel. This member is of sufflcient length so that it extends under and is partly wound upon the mandrel with the hair while another portion extends for some distance along the strand of hair toward the scalp. The rotatable clamp member 66 is then placed over the mandrel with projection 66 engaging the teeth 63 at both ends of the mandrel. The member 69 is engaged by prongs 1| which, as appear in Figure 5, are provided at the ends of serrated portions 12 formed in the member 66 by slots 13. The projections 1| are provided on an arc, generally corresponding to the contour of the hair wound upon the mandrel, the wound hair usually being thicker at its center than at the end.

Upon the member 66 being rotated about the mandrel, the prongs engage the flexible element 69 and pull thereon. Since the felt sheet is wound with the hair, tensioning this sheet also tensions the hair on the mandrel as the member is rotated. Rotation of the member is conveniently secured by the operator placing his fingers at both ends of the mandrel 6| and pushing on the projection portion 61 of the member while grasping the member with the other hand, further tensioning being effected by inserting wrench 16 into the complementary end 11 (Figure 4) of the mandrel 6| and holding member 66 while rotating the wrench. The trick of manipulating the device is quickly learned and is not at all complicated. After the hair has been heated for the time period sufficient to secure the wave desired, the device is readily released by pulling upon portion 81 so that the member springs around the mandrel and the felt sheet 88 is released.

In Figure 12 I have shown another form, similar to that in Figures 1, 2, and 9, wherein a sheet 88 of felt or flannel is wound in with the hair and over the last strand so that the sheet is between the hair and the clamp, the clamp bearing on the sheet 88. This facilitates uniform winding and tensioning.

In Figure 12 another form of protector member 43 has been shown. This member comprises two sheets of felt cloth 8| and 82, similar in outline to member 43 and having cut 44 therein through which the hair is passed. The member 48 is included between these strips, being secured in place by stitching 83 which also holds the two sheets 8| and 82 together.

The described method of waving hair, made possible by the apparatus disclosed, represents a material simplification and improvement over those methods usual to the prior art. For instance, with such a structure as that shown in the forementioned Mayer patent, the strand of hair wound upon the curling member, is held by a clamp adiacent the scalp, so that the strand of hair is pulled and stretched between the clamp and the curling member when the curling member is turned. However, instead of tightening the loose hair, this prior art structure results in first tightening the portion of the strand securely held by the clamp so that key-stretching" results. The loose portion of the strand may or may not be tightened, depending upon how much keystretching occurs. The apparatus of my invention makes a method possible in which the strand is tightened from inside of the spirally wound coil to the outside thereof so that all portions of the strand are under uniform tension. In addition, the strand is tensioned uniformly and keystretching is practically eliminated because hair is not being tensioned by being pulled between the curling member and the separate protector clamps. Instead, the hair is tightened by being forced around the curling member, tightening at the inner portion of the spiral first while the outer portion is pushed by the clamp bar or by the felt sheet. Further, overtensioning of the hair is not possible inasmuch as if any portion of a strand happens to be engaged more securely between the clamp bar and the curling member than another portion, the strand will slip between the bar and the curling member as soon as the unit tension on the hair becomes equal to or anproximates the tensioning force rotating the curling member. Undue tensioning is further obviated by the slip possible between the felt strip 88 and the hair and also by the slip between this strip and the clamping member 88 or the member 88. It is to be noted that the winding and clamping of the hair is secured by means the tension of which depends upon the winding operation and not of a separate clamp structure.

In operation, the whole head of the person whose hair is to be curled is wet with the treating solution usual in permanent waving operations. A strand of hair is then picked up and blocked, the protective pad or member 48 being slipped upon the strand and moved adjacent to the scalp. The strand of hair is then wrapped upon the curling member, the pad or felt sheet 88 inserted and the hair tightened. Each strand of hair is completed as it is operated upon. when ten curls have been wrapped the current is applied to the electric heaters and while these curlsare heating, the next ten are wrapped, the operator moving over the head in sections, preparing another ten curls during the heating of ten previously wrapped curls. Of course, a test curl or two may be run before the general heating operation is commenced to enable the operator to judge the hair of the person being waved. While these ten curls are heating for the required length of time, another ten curls can be wrapped and made ready for heating. The operator can then proceed to curl the next ten, the first heated ten cooling and the second ten curls heating. In this way the operator is able to move rapidly over the head, only a portion of the head is heated at a time, thus materially increasing the comfort and ease of operation as far as the person operated upon is concerned.

In heating the hair I preferably employ a relatively low voltage, using about five volts. Since the usual commercial voltage is much higher than this, usually 8 volts, a step down transformer 80 is employed which is ordinarily capable of supplying five volts, under regulation of a rheostat 8|, to each one of the hair waving units 82 connected in parallel with the secondary of the transformer. The resistance element in each one of the curling members 82 is of such a size that, upon a given voltage being supplied, a certain amount of heat will be generated in a given time. This is necessary so that the operator can secure uniform results and can judge the length of time for heating that is necessary to wave the hair. The step down transformer 88 is usually provided in a suitable cabinet and a relatively long flexible cable 88 is extended to a distribution unit 84 presently described in detail. To enable an accurate check on the voltage supplied to each one of the units, a voltmeter 88 is provided, its leads 88 being wound on cable 83. Because of the relatively high amperage required by ten hair waving units during heating thereof, I connect the voltmeter to the ends of the cable 83 adjacent the distribution block 84 so that the voltmeter does not register the voltage drop in the line up to the distribution block, but registers the voltage at the point of distribution to the several units. Since the size of the cords to the several units, in relation to the amperage supplied thereto, is rela tively large, the voltage indication of. the voltmeter 88 is much more accurate than if the voltmeter were connected directly across the secondary of the transformer.

In practice, the step down transformer 88 and the voltmeter 88 are provided in a suitable cabinet adjacent the operator, the cable 88 extending therefrom to any convenient point where the person is seated whose hair is being waved. Because of the weight of the cable 83, the cords on the several heating units 82 and the distributor 84, I preferably provide the distribution unit 84 with a structure generally indicated at 81 which can be attached to a projection on a chair or table adjacent to the person whose hair is being waved.

The cable 88 is attached to this unit, as appears in Figure 14, so that the weight and pull of the cable is taken up by the structure 81 and the strain is not placed upon the head of the person. The distribution unit 84 includes two metal conductor strips 88' to which the cable 88 is connected and from which the leads 88 to the several heating units extend. .The distributor 84 usually comprises two separate pieces, the member 81 being attached to one of them and screws 88 retaining the two pieces together after the various connections and wires have been inserted. In this way a convenient and simple device is provided for distributing the current to the various units, the voltage being only five volts, so that the danger of over-heating or of shock to the person is practically entirely obviated, while each unit is so fashioned that flnal tightening of the hair is secured by a resilient cushioning means which is not clamped positively to the hair.

As has been mentioned before, this latter feature avoids an uneven tension on the hair and ensures that all portions of the strand are uniformly tensioned. It is a feature of this invention that the wound strand of hair is tightened from the inside outwardly and that any loose strand portion is tightened up to the tension on the tight portions. This is because of the winch 'efiect of the mandrel and the fact that the hair is not held by a positive clamp but a portion of the spiral is retained under a regulated compression by resilient means 36 or member 43.

In Figures 16, 17, and 18 I have shown another form of shield or pad 43. This form includes two flat sheets llil and I02 usually of sponge rubber or felt. Between the sheets is placed a rectangular resilient metal stamping I03 (Figure 18) which extends about slot 44 in both sheets. The two sheets are secured together with stamping I03 between them, glue, rubber cement or stitching being used. The stamping gives a resilient backing to the slot and holds securely a strand of hair passed through the slot. In a preferred form two sheets of sponge rubber were used, a rubber cement retaining them together with stamping I03 between. The long legs of the stamping flex readily to permit a strand of hair to be passed through the slot, thereafter the resiliency of the stamping urging the slot 43 to close and engage the hair closely and firmly.

In Figures 19 and 20 I have shown the mandrel as employed with an external type of heater H0. While the heater can be a separate unit slipped or clamped on hair wound on the mandrel, as in the Bonat Patent No. 1,921,802, August 8, 1933 I preferably secure the heater to-the resilient bar 3 I and utilize the heater, as appears in Figure 20, in winding and securing the hair on the mandrel in the manner previously discussed at length so as to secure an even tension on all portions of the wound strand. Although the heater is not shown as encasing the hair, an efiective wave is secured since the heated vapors permeate through all portions ,Of the strand.

The heater llll includes resistance wires Iii in an insulating material H2 in a suitable casing H3 which is secured to bar 3| by screws ill. Terminals H5 in insulated cup I I6 provide for connection to the circuit for heating.

I claim:

1. In a hair waving apparatus, a curling member upon which a strand of hair is wound in spiral form, another member extending along said curling member and rotatable about said curling member, and a flexible element interposed between said members and engaged by said other member to bear against hair wound on said curling member and pull said wound hair about said curling member to tighten said wound hair upon rotation of said other member.

2. In a hair waving apparatus, a curling member upon which a strand of hair is wound in spiral form, another member extending along said curling member and rotatable about said curling member, and a flexible element wound partially with hair on said curling member and interposed between said members and engaged by said other member to bear against hair wound on said curling member and pull said wound hair about said curling member to tighten said wound hair upon rotation of said other member.

3. In a hair waving apparatus, a curling member for spiral winding of hair, and a clamp rubber covered bar hinged on said member and rotatable about said member.

4. In a hair waving apparatus, a curling member for spiral winding of hair, a rubber covered clamp bar hinged on said member and rotatable about said member, and a flexible element between said bar and said member.

5. In a hair waving apparatus, a curling member for spiral winding of hair, a clamp bar hinged on said member and means for securing said baragainst said hinging and for rotation about said member.

6. In a hair waving apparatus, a curling member for spiral winding of hair, a clamp bar, means for positioning said bar on said member for rotation, and a flexible element between said bar and hair on said member and forced, by rotation of said bar about said member, to pull taut hair wound on said curling member.

7. In a hair waving apparatus, a heat and vapor shield for positioning adjacent a scalp on a strand of hair, a curling member lying against said shield and having said strand of hair wound thereon, and clamp means for securing said wound strand of hair on said curling member.

8. In a hair waving apparatus, a heat and vapor shield for positioning adjacent a scalp on a strand of hair, a curling member lying against said shield and having said strand of hair wound thereon, and clamp means carried by said curling member away from said shield for securing tsJaid wound strand of hair on said curling mem 9. In a hair waving apparatus, a heat and vapor shield for positioning adjacent a scalp on a strand of hair, a curling member lying against said shield and having said strand of hair wound thereon, and clamp means carried by said curling member away from said shield and rotatable about said curling member for securing said wound strand of hair on said curling member.

10. In a hair waving apparatus, a heat and vapor shield for positioning adjacent a scalp on a strand of hair, a curling member lyingagainst said shield and having said strand of hair wound thereon, and clamp means hinged on said memher away from said shield and rotatable about said curling member for securing said wound strand of hair on said curling member.

11. In a hair waving device, a curling member upon which a strand of hair is wound in spiral form for waving, a flexible member adapted to be wound about said strand, and a member adapted to be placed on said flexible member to engage said flexible member and pull said flex- 13. The method of waving hair comprising winding a flat strand in loose, spiral form and tightening said wound hair by pulling on the inside of the spiral to tension said spiral while retaining a portion of the wound spiral under compression.

14. The method of waving hair comprising winding a flat strand of hair in spiral form with several convolutions and compressing a portion of each convolution to retain a tension on the wound strand of hair.

15. In a hair waving apparatus, a tubular member upon which a strand of hair is wound, heating means for said tubular member, a clamp bar adapted to be extended along said tubular member, and means on said tubular member including a screw and a nut for drawing said clamp bar against said member to clamp a woundstrand of hair between said bar and member.

16. In a hair waving apparatus, a tubular member upon which a strand of hair is wound, heating means for said tubular member, a clamp bar adapted to be extended along said tubular member and hinged and rotatable on said memher, and means on said tubular member including a screw engageable with said bar for securing said clamp bar against said member to clamp a Wound strand of hair between said bar and member. i

17. In a hair waving apparatus, a spindle, a clamp bar, means supporting one end of said clamp bar at one end of said spindle for both a hinge movement relative to said spindle and for rotation about said spindle, and a screw rotatably mounted at the other end of said spindlev for drawing said bar and spindle together.

18. In a hair waving apparatuaa spindle having ratchet teeth at each end thereof, and a casing for partially. surrounding said spindle and rotatable about said spindle in one direction in engagement with said teeth.

19. A hair appliance comprising a sheet of flexible material having a cut to pass a hair strand, and a metal stiffener about said out resisting deformation of said cut upon insertion 01' said strand.

ERNEST L. SMITH. 

